This kit is designed for those that converted their 99-04 Trucks to use the 05+ headlights with 9008 bulbs. To view all harnesses, go here.

 

Please install proper gauge with higher than stock wattage bulbs (more than 65 watt). We cannot warranty melted harnesses due to the use of these bulbs.

PLEASE NOTE: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) must be disabled in order to use this harness.

 

How to disable the DRL on Canadian Trucks: On the Canadian FORD F-250/F-350 trucks, the Daylight Running Light Module (DRL) is bolted to the header panel behind the driver’s side headlight, under the hood. The battery/Air box may be in the way, making it difficult to get your hand between the battery, and header panel to unplug it. If the truck has been running recently, the resistor is going to be VERY hot. This is why it is inside a perforated metal cage. It acts as a heat-sink. There will be a wire that plugs into it from the bottom. Just unplug the wire and let it hang, or zip-tie it out of the way. Now you can upgrade your headlight harness and get better and brighter light.

 

To view all harnesses, go here.

 

At Aspire Auto Accessories, we manufacture and carry our own Heavy Duty Relay Harnesses that fit a wide selection of bulbs commonly found in most vehicles. 

Connect your vehicles headlight bulbs to FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE for MAXIMUM BRIGHTNESS!

 

Why use a headlight wiring harness upgrade?

 

Reason #1: To minimize the VOLTAGE DROP in factory headlight systems. Voltage drop lowers the energy delivered to your headlight filaments which reduces their output. Voltage drop is a result of electrical power being run for long distances through thin wires. You can visualize voltage drop by imagining yourself drinking a beverage through a long thin straw (electric energy is the "beverage" and the wire is the "straw").

 

Reason #2: Another great benefit of using a Brite Box Headlight Wiring Harness Upgrade is that it reduces the current that is handled by the head light switch by a large margin. This reduction in current greatly increases the life of your head light switch.

 

For example: Your factory headlight systems POWER flows from BATTERY to HEAD LIGHT SWITCH in passenger compartment. When head light switch is turned on, POWER flows back out into engine compartment and then illuminates HEAD LIGHTS. Notice the long distance that power must travel. To make matters worse, typical factory headlight wires are 18 Gauge or LESS. These long runs of thin wires starve your head lights of energy.

 

ADDING A HEADLIGHT WIRING HARNESS UPGRADE: 

 

Increases the power delivered to your head lights by minimizing the distance power must flow from battery to head lights AND by passing this power through thick, 14 Gauge or 12 Gauge (for use with bulbs more than 65 watt bulbs. We cannot warranty melted harnesses due to the use of these bulbs.) USA made wire (Smaller Gauge = THICKER wire) with the highest quality copper conductor. 

 

After installing, POWER flows from BATTERY to HEAD LIGHT SWITCH in passenger compartment. When head light switch is turned on, POWER flows back out into engine compartment and then ACTIVATES RELAYS on Brite Box Harness. The RELAYS then CONNECT the HEAD LIGHTS DIRECTLY to BATTERY through 14 Gauge or 12 Gauge (for use with bulbs more than 65 watt bulbs) wires.

 

In simplified terms, the Brite Box harness is triggered by the head light switch and when triggered, the harness supplies power to the head lights through a more efficient path.

 

Perfect for dark roads, off-road, and rural areas! 

 

PLEASE NOTE: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) must be disabled in order to use this harness.

 

How to disable the DRL on Canadian Trucks: On the Canadian FORD F-250/F-350 trucks, the Daylight Running Light Module (DRL) is bolted to the header panel behind the driver’s side headlight, under the hood. The battery/Air box may be in the way, making it difficult to get your hand between the battery, and header panel to unplug it. If the truck has been running recently, the resistor is going to be VERY hot. This is why it is inside a perforated metal cage. It acts as a heat-sink. There will be a wire that plugs into it from the bottom. Just unplug the wire and let it hang, or zip-tie it out of the way. Now you can upgrade your headlight harness and get better and brighter light.

 

Can't find a harness that fit's your vehicle's bulbs? Let us know and we'll be happy to help! 

 

🎁 Free Dash and Steering Wheel Wipe + Free Brite Box Sticker with every purchase! 

 

Tip: When selecting your options, go in order step 1 thru 4 for the best results.

9007 to 9008 Heavy Duty Headlight Relay Harness

$79.99Price
Step 1: Choose Bulbs
Step 2: Harness Wire Gauge
Step 3: Power Wire Gauge
Step 4: Soldered Connections
  • • Smart & Heavy Duty harnesses are MADE IN THE USA!

    • 100% Plug and Play Installation. 

    • 14 Gauge Headlight Wires - Our wire is USA made. Don't settle for import wire! Import wire typically has extra thick insulation that makes the copper "under gauge"! Additionally, most import wire we see has very poor quality copper.

    • 30 / 40 Amp Relays.

    • Control Module is fully encapsulated for waterproofing and vibration resistance. (Smart Harness)

    • Wires are encased in split loom tubing for protection.

    • Fuse Protected with water resistant fuse holders.

    • One Year Warranty

  • POWER flows from BATTERY to HEAD LIGHT SWITCH in passenger compartment. When head light switch is turned on, POWER flows back out into engine compartment and then ACTIVATES RELAYS on Brite Box Harness. The RELAYS then CONNECT the HEAD LIGHTS DIRECTLY to BATTERY through 14 Gauge wires. In simplified terms, the Brite Box harness is triggered by the head light switch and when triggered, the harness supplies power to the head lights through a more efficient path